Dark sunglasses and a cheap disguise

Ruth Reichl’s new book inspired two deep urges in me: I want to read Garlic and Sapphires, and I want to see Vir “Rude Food” Sanghvi in a wig.
From the New Zealand Herald:
“From her perch as the restaurant critic of the New York Times, Ruth Reichl once wrote a review of a famous restaurant, Le Cirque.
Since it was published that review has become, at least in the little hothouse world of foodies, almost as legendary as the restaurant.
This is because Reichl wrote the review in two parts: the first from the perspective of “Molly,” a school teacher from Michigan, whose husband had made a killing in malls. Molly Hollis was the first disguise — with wig and the proper clothes appropriate to one of those ladies who lunch — that Reichl donned to fool the restaurants of the city who had her picture stuck up in kitchens.”
In Chicago, reporter Debra Pickett was faced with the prospect of taking Reichl out to lunch.
“A normal person would take Ruth Reichl to a fabulous restaurant — some amazing, undiscovered place with incredible food and easy, flawless service and a wine list full of moderately priced gems.”
Pickett took Reichl to an unpretentious vegan cafe. It was a terrible meal, but it makes a great story.
“‘If it’s good,’ she says, surveying the place and its menu full of innumerable varieties of tofu, ‘I’ll be shocked and amazed.’”